Not every adventure involves seven kids. Making time for just the two of us matters to us as much as the big family trips, and every so often Jason and I sneak away on our own. Barcelona was one of those trips. With three kids in college now, we figured we'd earned it. We went in early February, stayed in the Gothic Quarter, and spent our days on Gaudí, Picasso, and long dinners with Spanish wine.
We'll be back. Here's what we'd tell any couple planning the same trip.
Trip at a Glance
| Who | Just the two of us. |
|---|---|
| When | Early February. Cool, mild days, and far fewer crowds than summer. |
| Where we stayed | Mercer Hotel Barcelona, in the Gothic Quarter. |
| Highlights | Sagrada Família, the Picasso Museum, Casa Batlló, La Pedrera, Park Güell, flamenco at Tablao Flamenco Cordobés, and a lot of tapas. |
Where We Stayed: Mercer Hotel Barcelona
We can't recommend the Mercer Hotel enough. It was extremely nice, and it's the first place we'd book again.
The Mercer is a small hotel, under 30 rooms, built into the old Roman walls that once circled the city. There's a roof terrace with a small pool and views over the Gothic church towers, and the location is hard to beat. You can walk to the Picasso Museum in about five minutes, and most of the old city is on foot from the front door.
Why stay in the Gothic Quarter
The Barri Gòtic is Barcelona's medieval center: narrow stone streets, small plazas, and the cathedral, all a short walk from El Born and the waterfront. Staying here means you start every day already in the most interesting part of the city, and the walk home after dinner is half the fun.
On clear afternoons we walked down to the water: Port Vell for the palm trees and superyachts, and Barceloneta beach, where the sail-shaped W Hotel sits at the end of the sand.
Walking the City
Barcelona is a walking city, and walking was one of our favorite parts of the trip. We spent hours wandering with no plan: neat little streets, small shops tucked into old buildings, and a new plaza around every corner. La Rambla, the main strip, was amazing, lined with shops and full of people. It's also where we went for flamenco.
The city was very easy to get around. Most of what we wanted was walkable from the Gothic Quarter, and taxis were easy to find for the farther sights like Sagrada Família and Park Güell. We never once felt unsafe, day or night.
Walk smart
Wear comfortable shoes, because you'll cover miles without noticing. Busy spots like La Rambla and the metro do draw pickpockets, so use a crossbody bag that zips and keep your phone in a front pocket.
Sagrada Família
Gaudí's basilica has been under construction for well over a century, and it still stops you in your tracks. The outside is all carved stone and spires. Inside, the columns branch like trees and the stained glass fills the whole space with color.
Book Sagrada Família tickets ahead
Tickets are sold by timed entry, and they do sell out. Buy online before you go, and add the audio guide or a guided tour. The story behind the building is half the experience.
The Picasso Museum
The Museu Picasso is tucked into a row of medieval palaces in El Born, a few minutes' walk from the Mercer. It's especially strong on Picasso's early years, including work he made as a teenager in Barcelona, and seeing how his style developed is the best part of the visit.
Gaudí's Homes and Museums
Beyond Sagrada Família, we visited Casa Batlló, Casa Milà (La Pedrera), and Park Güell. In Gaudí's houses you can see how he designed every detail, from the curving facades down to door handles and chimneys. There isn't a straight line anywhere.
How to group the Gaudí sites
Casa Batlló and La Pedrera sit on the same boulevard, Passeig de Gràcia, so you can do both in one afternoon. Park Güell is farther out and worth its own half day. Book timed tickets for all three.
A Night of Flamenco
One night we went to Tablao Flamenco Cordobés on La Rambla for a flamenco show. The guitar, the singing, and the footwork, all live and up close, are something you have to see in person.
Go small
Flamenco comes from Andalusia in the south, but Barcelona has plenty of tablaos (flamenco venues). Pick one where you're close to the stage, and book ahead.
The Food and the Wine
Our favorite meal of the trip was at Cal Pep in El Born. You sit side by side at a long counter facing the open kitchen and watch the cooks work a few feet away. Get there early or expect to wait for a seat at the counter, and it's worth it.
We had the best food and Spanish wine of any trip we've taken. Plan your days around meals: a long lunch, tapas in the early evening, and dinner late, the way locals eat. Dinner in Barcelona rarely starts before 9 PM.
Order pan con tomate everywhere you go, try the jamón ibérico, and let the waiter pick a local wine. Catalonia makes its own cava (sparkling wine), and Priorat reds come from just a couple of hours outside the city.
We loved the wine so much that we found a local wine shop and shipped a lot of it home. If you fall for something at dinner, write down the name and ask a wine shop whether they can ship it to the U.S. Ours could, and it was the best souvenir we brought home.
Why Early February Worked
Barcelona in winter is mild compared with home: cool mornings, comfortable afternoons, and a light jacket is usually enough. The big sights have shorter lines than in summer, restaurants are easier to book, and the city feels like it belongs to the people who live there.
We'll Be Back
Barcelona is already on our list to visit again. Planning another trip for two? Read about our London Christmas getaway. If you're planning a getaway for two, start with a room at the Mercer and a dinner reservation, and fill in the rest from there.